NURIA DU CHÊNE DE VÈRE

I have always had a certain olfactory sensitivity. Or rather, instinct, attention and attraction to discover the smells of everyday life, of experiences. When I started my career as a nose, my mother gave me an album of photographs that, from an early age, portrayed me in the act of smelling everything that was within my reach, from flowers to plants. It was a kind of library of emotions. Yet it took years to understand that I could transform this "delicacy" of mine - I don't like to call it talent - into a job ...

 

Passionate about art and literature, poetry and chemistry, after high school I graduated in Media Languages at the Catholic University of Milan, to get closer to the world of advertising, my family's work for more than a century. Yet I felt that there was a "nonsoché" that I was missing. My father told me: "Have the courage to change course, to do something in tune with your creative being." He was referring to my artistic flair, my "childish" predilection for drawing, decoupage and ceramics, which then evolved into a love for music, art, furniture, photography and travel. He was also referring to my immense collection of perfumes, a universe that most fascinated and frightened me at the same time. I considered him elusive, impenetrable.

 

Driven by my family and above all by my great-uncle Gimmo Etro, a great expert in fragrances and luxury Made in Italy, I began to investigate what was hiding behind the scenes of an environment unknown to most. I discovered that, among the three best schools in the sector, in France, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery was a pearl in the heart of the world's perfumery capital, surrounded by fields of precious raw materials to smell, study and use. In 2017, I was admitted.

 

IMy year in Grasse was intense, bucolic, "Renaissance". They taught me to educate the nose and train the olfactory memory, between the study of raw materials, natural and synthetic, the composition of accords and fragrances, starting from cologne, and visiting other companies in the sector, like Givaudan, sponsor of my academic year. But it was precisely the constant and privileged relationship with nature that marked my path, such as assisting in the collection and extraction process (from the field to the bottle) of what I consider the jewels of perfumery - the rose of Grasse , jasmine, tuberose and mimosa. The earth is for me connection, necessity. As a child explorer of the family estate in Spain, in the middle of the cork forests, or of my grandmother's rose gardens in Italy, nature will always be my essential source of inspiration.

 

From 2018 to 2021, I worked as a creative perfumery at Moellhausen, an Italian essence house. I specialized in the formulation of fragrances and in the replacement and reconstruction of molecules, and I have participated in meetings with customers, in Italy and around the world, including the Middle East, a fascinating region with a profound perfume culture. Traveling is essential for a nose: it inspires, illuminates, suggests. Then "it will be enough" to transform the idea into matter.

 

Today, a new path begins. 2020 was a watershed year for me too: it forced me to stop and reflect on the future. When I decided to give up my advertising career to become a master perfumer, I had one goal: to create my own line of fragrances. Not "one day", but as soon as possible. As a young and full of life girl.

 

That time has come. Meet Nur.